Mantecatron

br/>I could have stayed more, but I had business I needed to attend to back in San Antonio.

Just an awesome, awesome experience that will take me some time to process.

Practically speaking, it's been more than 50 days without... Driving. Church's Fried Chicken. Lone Star. Flushing toilet paper. Doing ANYTHING vaguely illegal. (Have you seen that show Locked Up Abroad on National Geographic???) Being shorter than someone. Speaking much English. Touching another human being. (Aside from brushing shoulders in a bus seat. A strange realization, but true.) I went for about 45 days without any fast food, but I actually had a Big Mac Attack. (And I'm ashamed of it, of course.) Real Tex Mex flour tortillas.

I'm going to do all this stuff this weekend. Watch out.

Random Image.

2008-12-03T11:21:00.001-08:00

I NEVER saw an indigenous person that looked like this during my time in Mexico.

I guess if white people want to believe their ancestors looked like Conan the Barbarian, then why bother the pre-columbian folk's ideas about the past?

After All the Hype.

2008-12-03T11:17:00.001-08:00

After all the hype, it EXCEEDED the sky-high expectations.

Not one of the top meals of this trip. One of the top meals of my life!

Sublime! Succulent! Crispy, fatty delicious skin over juicy, meaty goat!

What Zankou Chicken in LA does for chicken.

What City Market in Luling does for cow.

El Rey del Cabrito, you ARE the king of goat.

All hail the king!

The Elevator.

2008-12-03T11:10:00.001-08:00

Where does it go? Can I go there? Who do I ask?

Is there some cabrito VIP lounge I should be made aware of???

Would it be like the end of Willie Wonka and the elevator busts out of the building? Would it land on a goat?

I want in!

Casual Dining Norteño Style.

2008-12-03T11:06:00.001-08:00

Everything was goat themed. The elaborate carved wood chairs. All the architectural details. The napkin holders had pictures of splayed goats.

It was insane.

Mollejas.

2008-12-03T11:03:00.001-08:00

I'm not a lover of organ meats, but these beauties were barbequed to perfection. With some onion...delicious.

The Menu Looks Promising.

2008-12-03T11:01:00.001-08:00

I want to know this guy. He looks like a character. A used car salesman of the roasted goat world.

What's his story???

Also I want that shirt. A short sleeve mariachi shirt. Try taking cabrito grease out of the embroidery, though.

El Rey del Cabrito.

2008-12-03T10:58:00.001-08:00

After a couple of short airline flights, my friend and I were in Monterrey, where the journey began for me 51;days before.

I had passed this place before. Curious. Scared. Hungry.

But I had passed it up 51;days ago. Not today, though.

Main Drag.

2008-12-03T10:54:00.001-08:00

Kinda upscale touristy? A lot of English being spoken.

Boo.

View From Under the Palapa.

2008-12-03T10:52:00.001-08:00

Playa del Carmen.

2008-12-03T10:51:00.001-08:00

A little more crowded. A little more expensive.

Still nice, though.

The Unforgettable Ruins of Tulum.

2008-11-30T22:18:00.001-08:00

Unfortunately, I did forget my camera phone at a restaurant in Tulum.

Here's another picture of food. A seafood stand by the bus station before the trip.

Go Google "Tulum" and "Mayan." I'm sure there are much better pics than I could take. The site is not top, top tier. (Like Monte Alban, Palenque or Chichen Itza) But it is solid. A Mayan city situated on a cliff overlooking the ocean. Strategically placed for defense and trade along the coast.

UPDATE: Found pics on other camera.

Hometown Wins.

2008-11-30T09:39:00.001-08:00

There is joy in Mudville, as I look for the nearest restroom because my eyes are watery and my bladder is pulsating with pain.

Go Atlante!

Bring on... Santo? San Luis? Not sure.

Another Set of Doubles, please.

2008-11-30T09:35:00.001-08:00

The girl in front of me got up and jumped into my enormous cup of beer and started swimming.

I had to pick her out like a gnat that flew into my drink.

The Crowd Was Animated.

2008-11-30T09:33:00.001-08:00

Drumming. Chanting. Numerous waves.

The middle aged woman next to me had the mouth of a Veracruz sailor. ¡Vieja cochina! She was having a blast, though.

An Accident at Halftime.

2008-11-30T09:30:00.001-08:00

An eagle mascot had an interaction with this inflatable star mascot. The star fell down and its costume started losing air. The yellow plastic material began clinging to the person's body as a handler worked to make sure this person didn't suffocate.

Half the crowd was cracking up. A quarter was concerned. The rest wasn't really paying attention.

The Playoffs.

2008-11-30T09:24:00.001-08:00

The Tigres of Monterrey v. the hometown Atlante. Two of eight teams left for the Mexican national championship.

It was an elimination game for the Tigres.

I'll Have a Beer. A Double.

2008-11-30T09:22:00.001-08:00

Are You Ready for Some Futbol?

2008-11-30T09:20:00.001-08:00

After Isla de Mujeres, my friend and I checked into a hotel downtown and made our way to the arena, where the playoffs were happening.

We bought them from a young scalper, but you would have thought we were buying something very, very illegal, with how paranoid HE was.

Tourists on the Boat Ride Back.

2008-11-29T13:53:00.001-08:00

Pulpo at Isla de Mujeres.

2008-11-29T13:52:00.001-08:00

Entire Day Spent at Beach.

2008-11-29T13:51:00.001-08:00

This Morning.

2008-11-28T11:13:00.003-08:00

Downtown Cancun Bar.

2008-11-28T11:13:00.001-08:00

Watching UT trounce the HELL out of A&M.

Beautiful. Did you like the game, Ben Morales? Ha!

Señor Frogs.

2008-11-28T11:11:00.001-08:00

I had to do it. Part of the experience, right?

One drink and out. The drunk Americans with balloon hats were getting to me.

Thanksgiving in Cancun.

2008-11-28T11:04:00.001-08:00

The best beach I've ever been to. No doubt. Clear blue water. Powdery sand. Beautiful. All day was spent here.

This is where I called you from, mom and dad.

Spurs Game in Mexico.

2008-11-28T11:01:00.001-08:00

At a Mexican Hooters.

I hope the travel gods forgive me for this one, but I needed to watch some basketball. A kid's pickup game or something.

Looks like Ginobili made it back before I did. Will I make it back before Parker???

Cancun.

2008-11-28T10:58:00.001-08:00

View from the balcony.

Forty bucks a night per person. Awesome.

Port A, I won't miss you.

The Ballcourt.

2008-11-28T10:57:00.001-08:00

Temple of Venus.

2008-11-28T10:56:00.001-08:00

More Chichen Itza.

2008-11-28T10:55:00.001-08:00

One of the sinkholes that collected water for the city.

More Chichen Itza.

2008-11-28T10:54:00.001-08:00

The Caracol.

Set to capture light at the equinoxes and solstices.

More Chichen Itza.

2008-11-28T10:53:00.001-08:00

The Incomparable Chichen Itza.

2008-11-28T10:52:00.001-08:00

Public Art in One of the Roundabouts.

2008-11-28T10:51:00.001-08:00

From 16 Merida

This one is...big? Right. Horrible.

On the Montejo Boulevard.

2008-11-28T10:50:00.003-08:00

From 16 Merida

During the reign of Porfirio Diaz, Mérida became a boomtown, with the export of sissal, used to make...rope.

It's millionaires built a Parisian-style boulevard and mansions on that boulevard.

Irony.

2008-11-28T10:50:00.001-08:00

From 16 Merida

The general that gained fame suppressing the revolt of Mayan peasants eventually has his beautiful home given up as a museum to their ancestors.

It boggles the mind.

From 16 Merida

This Kids Wants Out.

2008-11-28T10:30:00.003-08:00

From 16 Merida

Be quiet and stop complaining. We're trying to get rid if that ugly normal head of yours.

How It's Done.

2008-11-28T10:30:00.001-08:00

From 16 Merida

What, me worry?

From 16 Merida

Skull Modifications.

2008-11-28T10:29:00.001-08:00

From 16 Merida

Looks goods. Let's bring it back.

This was for the religious-ruling class.

Built by This Guy.

2008-11-26T07:18:00.001-08:00

From 16 Merida

A wealthy businessman. A dealer in plumbing supplies? Did I read that correctly? Also a general in Mexico's Caste War, where Mayan peasants revolted against the deplorable conditions in which they were forced to work. An asshole.

Mérida's Anthropology Museum.

2008-11-26T07:15:00.001-08:00

From 16 Merida

Housed in a private residence from shortly after the turn of the century.

Interesting Sculpture Indoors.

2008-11-26T07:13:00.001-08:00

From 16 Merida

I wouldn't mind owning this, actually.

Templo Santa Ana.

2008-11-26T07:12:00.001-08:00

From 16 Merida

Oldest church in Mérida. Built upon a sacred Mayan temple.

Take that, old gods.

Odd First Hotel.

2008-11-26T07:09:00.001-08:00

From 16 Merida

The was the prettiest shot I could find. It was described as surrealistic in the guidebook, mostly it was cluttered and dirty. It was like I was sleeping in a messy artist's back studio garage.

From 16 Merida

Karoake Bar.

2008-11-25T19:54:00.001-08:00

I sang Rock with You by Michael Jackson. The crowd was so into the song, they didn't notice I couldn't sing. A middle aged man got on stage and also began singing along.

Overpriced Mérida Beer.

2008-11-25T19:53:00.001-08:00

From 16 Merida

Sure it was like eating at touristy Republic of Texas restaurant at San Antonio's Riverwalk, but hey, this is Mexico. It's got to be cheap.

Bottom line? $752. Ouch.

Don't go here. And if you must, don't drink the beer by the yard. Actually, just don't drink beer by the yard.

Atop the Frank D. Wing Building.

2008-11-23T17:40:00.001-08:00

From 14 Ednza

Another View.

2008-11-23T17:38:00.001-08:00

From 14 Ednza

View from the Temple.

2008-11-23T17:37:00.003-08:00

From 14 Ednza

Edzná.

2008-11-23T17:37:00.001-08:00

From 14 Ednza

Temple of the Five Floors.

A second tier site, but still beats anything in...Dallas, for instance.

Nothing Today.

2008-11-23T07:38:00.001-08:00

Both me and my travel friend, who joined me in Veracruz, got sick. He's got fever and chills. I've got...um...stomach distress and achiness.

I think I'm feeling better now, but nothing happened yesterday, except sleeping and running to the restroom.

It was probably from the same restaurant across the bus station in Villahermosa. We should have left when my friend saw a rat crawl in from the street. This is not a joke. We figured it was fine, since it was an outside rat.

Ok, hopefully more later today...

Local Specialty.

2008-11-22T05:48:00.001-08:00

From 13 Veracruz

Greasy tortilla. Shredded chicken. Avacado. Hard boiled egg. Catsup.

No, not my favorite meal in Mexico.

I forget the exact name. It sounded like a vulgar Spanish word for a body part, so I'm not going to even try to attempt it.

Regrets.

2008-11-22T05:45:00.001-08:00

From 13 Veracruz

If I had this trip to do all over again, I would have taken pictures of all the hotel keys I've had.

Large plastic badges. Thick bands of hand-toolled leather. Small planks of wood, seared with branding tools. Small metal dogtags. I'm sure the day of the code cards will come to every hotel and these will be a thing of the past.

This is truly the Golden Age of the bizarre hotel key chains of Mexico.

Good Times at the Plaza.

2008-11-22T05:39:00.001-08:00

From 13 Veracruz

This lady in denim was having a blast. Song after song, she would not stop. Her pregnant friend was having less of a good time.

No shame in that. None of us could keep up.

Vicente Fox o Haddam Hussien?

2008-11-22T05:36:00.001-08:00

From 13 Veracruz

Mariscos by the Sea.

2008-11-22T05:33:00.001-08:00

From 13 Veracruz

Living dangerously. These were purchased from two different guys with two different dirty buckets.

I'm still living.

Hip Pooh.

2008-11-22T05:30:00.001-08:00

From 13 Veracruz

I know who you really are, Pooh. And you're not as cool as you think you are.

Little People. Big Finger.

2008-11-22T05:29:00.001-08:00

From 13 Veracruz

Veracruz's only Lucha Libre school. Little people train free.

I'm going to crush you with my index finger!

Another Accidental Parade.

2008-11-22T05:27:00.001-08:00

From 13 Veracruz

They formed a human pyramid and sacrificed a building on top of it.

Take that, architecture.

A Little Too Much Character?

2008-11-22T05:21:00.003-08:00

From 13 Veracruz

And there ARE bars like this in San Antonio. Several southside lounges, in fact.

Los Mariscos de Veracruz.

2008-11-22T05:21:00.001-08:00

From 13 Veracruz

Veracruz.

2008-11-19T11:32:00.001-08:00

From 13 Veracruz

The eighteen hour bus ride wasn't that bad. I guess I'm getting used to them.

I visited Veracruz about 15 years ago with some college friends. (Jones. Dean. Holla.)

A fine city. This is the view from the hotel's terrace.

Before the Bus to Veracruz.

2008-11-19T11:29:00.001-08:00

From 12 Campeche

I stopped off at this cinderblock thatched-roof bar next to an autobody shop.

With every sip they seemed to bring out a free botana. Small plates of octopus ceviche. A rich fish soup. Tostadas.

This needs to be brought to the States. Why can't I get a small plate of free peanuts at La Tuna?

View from the Museum's Roof.

2008-11-19T11:25:00.001-08:00

From 12 Campeche

Pillar with Little Person Dancing.

2008-11-19T11:24:00.001-08:00

From 12 Campeche

That's for you, John Marsalis.

Lover of the little people.

Museum of Mayan Architecture.

2008-11-19T11:23:00.001-08:00

From 12 Campeche

Built in one of the city's ballestrudes. (sp?) Right by the main plaza.

From 12 Campeche

Campeche's Cathedral.

2008-11-19T11:20:00.001-08:00

From 12 Campeche

The obligatory (at this point) cathedral shot. Very nice.

Nearby Bar.

2008-11-19T11:19:00.001-08:00

From 12 Campeche

El Rincón Colonial, I believe. The guidebook tells me it's a Cuban style bar.

It's got authenticity down to it's bones. It's really rich. I wish there was an equivilent in San Antonio. El Tenampa? I don't know...

I would have taken a better picture to give you the feel if the place, but I had to sneak this one out.

One of the Ballestrudes.

2008-11-19T11:13:00.001-08:00

From 12 Campeche

That surround the city. They were begun in the 1600s after a particularly savage pirate attack.

Campeche was a very successful port city and a target for pirates. A lot of the tourist souveniers have pirate related stuff on them.

Sure, it's funny NOW...

From 12 Campeche

After the Jungle.

2008-11-19T11:09:00.001-08:00

From 12 Campeche

Each one of these mosquito bites were screaming for attention. But they are never satisfied. All they want is more and more!

Overblogging? Yes. They are all better, now.

Estoy Blogeando Aqui.

2008-11-17T12:04:00.001-08:00

From 12 Campeche

This is even better than it looks. Without the beer, it's less than $4.20.

If ANYBODY reading this wants to come to Mexico in the future, I will go with you. And I'm completely serious, too. I'm hooked. I'm totally hooked.

Plaza Principal.

2008-11-17T11:53:00.001-08:00

From 12 Campeche

You can feel the breeze from the ocean, which is just a few dozen yards away.

Campeche is Beautiful.

2008-11-17T11:51:00.001-08:00

From 12 Campeche

The historic center is row after row of cake-frosting-colored building.

The slightly overcast sky makes the colors less vibrant in the pictures, but makes the weather cool and breezy. Very nice.

Charros.

2008-11-17T11:44:00.001-08:00

From 12 Campeche

League of Retired La Fonda Waitresses.

2008-11-17T11:42:00.001-08:00

From 12 Campeche

Ended in a grito of "Be careful the plate is hot!" It was strange.

Hmmm...

2008-11-17T11:40:00.001-08:00

From 12 Campeche

These kids HAD to be forced to do this, right?

Tot Kwon Do.

2008-11-17T11:37:00.001-08:00

From 12 Campeche

A martial arts demonstration. Then they punched me in the groin and took my good camera. F'n kids.

Tough Guy Tricks 3.

2008-11-17T11:34:00.001-08:00

From 12 Campeche

This one, I don't understand. The Flag Set-Up?

Tough Guy Tricks 2.

2008-11-17T11:31:00.001-08:00

From 12 Campeche

This is useful for barreling into a thatched hut and oppressing the inhabitants.

Tough Guy Tricks 1.

2008-11-17T11:30:00.001-08:00

From 12 Campeche

When they aren't oppressing their own people, they practice stunts.

Sisterhood of Future Flight Attendants.

2008-11-17T11:24:00.001-08:00

From 12 Campeche

¡Hola!

2008-11-17T11:23:00.001-08:00

From 12 Campeche

Quieres ir a los Estados Unidos? Sí, conmigo.
¿No vale? It's not worth it? Uh... Ok. Bueno...Bye."

Esquela por of Major League Umpires.

2008-11-17T11:22:00.001-08:00

From 12 Campeche

Filling the need for Spanish speaking umpires in MLB.

The Brotherhood of IT Professionals, Campeche Chapter.

2008-11-17T11:16:00.001-08:00

From 12 Campeche

Silly.

2008-11-17T11:15:00.001-08:00

From 12 Campeche

The dance that accompanied this silly outfit was an effeminate prance and clop.

Maybe we should let this one die out.

Campeche All-Pansa Color Guard.

2008-11-17T11:09:00.001-08:00

From 12 Campeche

Coincidently, the celebration that will take place when I am Emperor of Earth will involve a parade of cute, chubby girls. Just a little older than these girls, though. C'mon.

Before I Even Stepped Out.

2008-11-17T11:01:00.001-08:00

From 12 Campeche

There was a parade at the hotel door.

Go drumline. And go throw away those dingleberries on your arms.

Hotel Lopez.

2008-11-17T10:57:00.001-08:00

From 12 Campeche

After a brutal bus ride to Campeche from Villagermosa, I arrived deliriously tired at my destination at four am. Bad.

Luckily, I picked a hotel that was open. An upscale one. I was able to rationalize it this way: I'm sort of getting a two for one. The rest of this night, today, and I check out tomorrow at noon. Anyway... It's a very nice place. And still less than $40.

Villahermosa.

2008-11-16T18:51:00.001-08:00

This is the nice part of the city they are trying to revitalize. No joke.

Get me outta here.

Ped Egg Comes to Mexico.

2008-11-16T18:38:00.001-08:00

I was shocked when I saw this infomercial in Mexico.

I have been using my Ped Egg since the start of my trip. I have left foot dust in hotels from Monterrey to Palenque. I now wear a size 10 shoe. Thank you, Ped Egg.

However...

2008-11-16T18:33:00.001-08:00

The Sunday morning tamales have plums (?) and olives in Chiapas.

Pan Dulce.

2008-11-16T18:32:00.001-08:00

Picked up at the local bakery. Looks a little familiar, no?

Am I in South Texas or South Mexico?

Along with the folk medicine of the
Maya/curandismo, the food and the language, there are parts of San Antonio that have WAY more to do with Mexico than most of the United States. Take away the chain stores, and what do you have? (Actually, the chain stores are being added to Mexico.)

Rainy Palenque. The town.

2008-11-16T18:26:00.001-08:00

Rustic Kitchen.

2008-11-16T18:25:00.001-08:00

Where we ate our simple meals made by the Lacandón people.

Of course, by the time I got to
Palenque (the town), I was ravenously hungry. I ate two dinners at the first restaurant I found.

The Waterfall.

2008-11-16T18:20:00.001-08:00

Very nice. Some of the group swam. It's funny that the nice hippie girl looked a little like Elizabeth Shue. Like Elizabeth Shue in the movie Cocktail, she went topless at the waterfall. Suddenly all my attention was diverted elsewhere, but some travellers from other groups were fixated. C'mon, guys. Pretend it's not the first time you've seen a pair.

At any rate...I have to say that despite our huge stylistic differences and an irony/sincerity gap that is a mile wide, hippies are good people. (The real ones. Not the uptight white people futilely trying to unclench.)

It's taken this smirky, cynical person too long to admit this.

So, I can let the Greatful Dead thing pass.

Seemingly Endless Hours of Hiking.

2008-11-16T18:08:00.001-08:00